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Joinery
Veneering
Materials
- Marquetry
- Inlay
- Surface Veneer
Methods
- Hammer veneering
- Press
- Vacuum
Hammer Veneering
Have you ever wondered if you should use a ball peen or a claw hammer
for veneering? And is bigger better
for hammers in veneering? In fact,
hammer veneering is a process that has been in use for hundreds of
years. Using simple tools and hide
glue, veneering can be done in any shop.
Hammer veneering also allows the continuous veneering which is not
limited by a vacuum bag or veneer press.
The key to this process is hide glue
(described in associated link) which is made from animal parts and been
used since the days when the Egyptians were building pyramids. During these session you will learn the importance
of hide glue for veneering and construction and the tools and techniques
for veneering.
Finishing
WARNING: all these finishes have some sort of solvent
present that is given off as it dries. Those solvents are potentially
harmful if breathed and/or flammable if exposed to flames. Only work
in well ventilated areas, using proper breathing and eye protection
devices, and following manufactures suggested procedures. Always
review prior to use the medical procedures in the event of an accident or
improper use.
For the type furniture I make, the primary finishes I use are
shellac, oils (tung and linseed oils) and wax.
- Wax - provides the
least amount of protections, but also has the least impact on the
visual appearance of the project. A good wax will not change the
color or texture of the wood as noticeably as other finishes.
- Oil provides more
protection than wax, but is still a minimal protector. It too
will allow the natural texture of the wood to come through. It
will darken the wood to some degree.
- Shellac provides
protections, highlights the color and texture of the wood.
Depending on how it is applied, it can be "built up" to
provide a more mirror like finish. Some consider this a sign of
high end finishes, and others believe it hides the true nature of the
wood. Different strokes for different folks. But in you
will find in museums of examples of period furniture nearly all will
have a finish that has virtually filled the grain to produce a very
smooth surface.
Methods of application. I have applied shellac with all current
forms of application. I have recently discovered that when brushing
if a sable hair brush is used, there are no visible brush marks. This
is a real joy to use and the results are exceptional.
I suggest if you are interested in these techniques you try them and
observe your outcome. You will never learn from just reading.
Live the experience.
- Rubbing - the first
coats of rubbing a finish are the easiest to apply and require the
least skill. With shellac, as more coats are applied it requires
more attention to avoid "burning" or build up of
finish. Getting the "feel" of the process is something
that is learned by trying and observing the results.
- Brushing - this
requires attention to avoid excessive brush marks. Too much
brushing is often a problem. Shellac dries quickly and if you
attempt to continue to brush it out, it will grab and create brush
marks. Just move on to other areas. In worst cast, go back
and sand it flat and continue.
- Spraying - this
requires special equipment and should be done in an open area.
- Rub out - this is a
method to finish the finish. All finishes after properly applied
still have minor imperfections that effect their appearance and
tactile properties of the wood. In the 17th and 18th centuries,
the finisher would have used rotten stone and pumice and bees wax for
the final finishing. These fine powders provide for an ever
finer polishing of the surface that ultimately improve the light
reflective and tactile quality. The final application of bees
wax gives the warm feel and enhances the quality of the surface
reflection.
My finish of choice is shellac. While his finish has gotten some
bad press in the past about its inability to handle alcohol and water,
those claims are not completely accurate. Additionally, the type
furniture I make is not what the owners would allow alcohol or water to
stand for extended periods of time. Shellac produces a more natural
and "warm" finish. It can be finished to a high luster or a
matte surface. The finish may be applied with a rag, brush or spray
equipment. It is very forgiving and can be repaired at nearly any
phase of the process.
Shellac should be used from fresh mixture. Purchase a good
quality dry shellac flakes or seed lac and mix with denatured
alcohol. Pre-mixed solutions are not as effective.
Shellac is the critical ingredient in French Polishing. French
polishing was used by the period furniture makers and is considered the
"high end" finish. It is very labor intensive and does
require more than just basic skill but can be learned quickly if practiced
under proper supervision. For an excellent tutorial on the methods of
French polishing visit the Milburn Guitar tutorial listed below.
Tutorials and more detailed information.
French
Polishing Instruction
Deller
French Polishing Tutorial
Milburn Guitars French Polishing Tutorial
Information on
Use of Wax as a Finish
Shellac.net Color
Theory
c/o Ken Johnson
Marietta, Georgia
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